Sumbawa: The Wild Island Next Door to Bali and Lombok

Why Sumbawa, and who it suits

Sumbawa is for travelers who have already done Bali and want something rougher around the edges. Distances are long, roads are slow, English is limited and accommodation outside a few hubs is simple. In return you get empty savanna hills, barrel waves at Lakey Peak, snorkeling with whale sharks in Saleh Bay, the jungle waterfalls of Moyo Island and a trek into the caldera of Mount Tambora, whose 1815 eruption caused the "year without a summer" in Europe.

It suits surfers, divers, hikers and patient independent travelers. It does not suit anyone on a tight schedule or looking for beach clubs. The island is conservative and overwhelmingly Muslim, so dress modestly away from the surf camps.

Sumbawa splits naturally in two. The west, around Sumbawa Besar, is the gateway to Moyo and Saleh Bay. The east, around Dompu and Bima, is home to Lakey Peak and the main Tambora trails.

Getting there

• Ferry from Lombok: from Kayangan port, near Labuhan Lombok on Lombok's east coast, car ferries cross to Poto Tano on Sumbawa's west tip day and night. The crossing takes roughly 1.5 to 2 hours and costs only a few dollars for a foot passenger. From Poto Tano, Sumbawa Besar is about two hours' drive; the east of the island is a full day away.
• Fly to Sumbawa Besar (SWQ): Wings Air flies from Lombok, and the airport sits right in town. This is the best gateway for Moyo and the whale sharks.
• Fly to Bima (BMU): in the east, the gateway for Lakey Peak and Tambora's southern trails. Flights connect via Lombok or, at times, directly from Denpasar, taking about 45 minutes from Lombok and around 1 hour 10 minutes from Bali. Lion Air and Wings Air charge extra for surfboards, around IDR 200,000 per board. Check current schedules, as routes on small regional airlines change often.

Most visitors hire a car with driver, as public buses are slow and infrequent.

Lakey Peak: surf on the south coast

Near the village of Hu'u in Dompu, Lakey Peak is one of Indonesia's most consistent waves: an A-frame reef peak with a punchy left and right that barrels on good swells. Around it are Lakey Pipe, a hollow right for experienced surfers, and further breaks such as Periscopes and Nungas. The season runs roughly April to October, when offshore trade winds groom the waves, and the small strip of guesthouses and warungs fills up in July and August. From Bima airport the drive takes around two to three hours, and airport taxis charge a fixed fare of roughly IDR 500,000 to 600,000.

The reef is shallow and sharp. This is not a beginner destination; bring a first aid kit and reef booties.

Whale sharks in Saleh Bay

In the calm waters of Saleh Bay, near Labuhan Jambu on Sumbawa's north coast, whale sharks gather around bagan, the traditional fishing platforms whose lights attract small fish at night. In the morning, fishermen and guides take small groups out to the platforms, where the sharks often feed just below the surface. The main season runs roughly April to November, and dark-moon periods, when the bagan fish most actively, tend to give the best odds. Shared trips are reported from around IDR 700,000 per person, with private boats several million rupiah.

Labuhan Jambu is a few hours' drive east of Sumbawa Besar, and transfers can be arranged from the airport. Do not touch the sharks, keep a few meters away and avoid crowding them.

Moyo Island

Off the north coast near Sumbawa Besar, Moyo is a nature reserve of forest, reef and deer. The highlight is Mata Jitu, a series of turquoise pools and cascades reached by an easy walk or short motorbike ride from the village of Labuan Aji. Snorkeling from the beach is excellent, and there are simple guesthouses and a small dive resort, as well as the luxury tented camp of Amanwana. A daily public boat leaves Sumbawa Besar's harbor around midday for about IDR 100,000, taking roughly one to two and a half hours depending on the boat and the sea; private speedboats cost around IDR 1.5 to 2.5 million per trip.

Mount Tambora

Tambora once stood over 4,000 meters before it blew its top in April 1815, killing tens of thousands of people. Today it is about 2,850 meters high, with a caldera around 6 to 7 kilometers wide, and is protected as Tambora National Park. There are four official climbing routes: Pancasila and Doro Ncanga in Dompu, and Piong and Kawinda Toi in Bima. Pancasila is the classic forest trek, usually two to three days. Doro Ncanga crosses savanna and allows jeep access part of the way.

The park closes in the rainy season; in 2025 the trails shut from early January and reopened on April 13. In October 2025, rangers also closed four illegal trails, so use an official route, register with the park and hire a local guide. Bring warm layers: nights on the rim are cold.

Planning a trip

A good first loop takes ten days to two weeks: cross from Lombok, spend two nights near Sumbawa Besar for Moyo, swim with whale sharks at Saleh Bay, continue east to Lakey Peak or Tambora, then fly out of Bima. The best time overall is the dry season, roughly May to October. From Bima, the road continues to the port of Sape and the ferry to Labuan Bajo, making Sumbawa an adventurous overland route toward Komodo.